Sunday, November 13, 2011

Images from Central Java

When I wasn't making a fool out of myself in front of hundreds of people at International English conferences, I got to jalan-jalan around the city with friends. Here is what we saw.

1. Visit to a Bakpia Factory (Jogjakarta)- Bakpia is a tasty little ball of dough with chocolate, green beans, or even durian (blech) baked inside.
Flipping the bakpia...job hazard = burnt fingers.

2. Painting Batik (Jogjakarta) - The ladies and I took a several hour course in painting batik. There was much dripping of wax and burning of fingers, but it was a perfect way to enjoy a rainy day.


3. Dinners and Beceks (Jogjakarta) - A fantastic little vegan restaurant and a fantastic group of friends...except for that guy in the hat. He gives me the creeps.

4. The streets of Semarang -  My coworker and dear friend, Iin, took me and several other fellows around to see some sights in Semarang after our conference duties were complete. We saw men preparing chickens for a cock fight, old Dutch buildings, and many other colorful sites.


 5. Gereja Blenduk (Semarang) -  Our first stop was this beautiful church built in 1753.



6. The Train Station (Semarang) - The train station is famous because it boasts over 1,000 doors, and it makes for really pretty black and white pictures. Iin's niece and nephew were particularly taken with the train.




Not bad for a whirlwind trip through Central Java.

Lessons in Moderation


This month, I was able to meet up with my fellow fellows in Semarang, a city in the center of my island, for Indonesia's International English conference: TEFLIN.

Each of the fellows is asked to present an hour-long workshop on some successful strategies we've used in the classroom. This year, I had the added bonus of getting to moderate for one of the key-note speakers. This means introducing the speaker and topic, opening the floor up for questions, and then wrapping up the session with a nice little summary. 
I was quite proud of my performance behind the microphone...that is until I opened up the floor for questions. We only had time for one question; should have been a cake-walk.






"Yes, you, sir."
"Yes, thank you for the time. My name is (names removed for the protection of the innocent and because I can't remember them). My question has three parts...."
Oh no.
"First, why do you think blah blah blah....."
You talk, I'll just be here writing up my wrap up summary. 
"Second, blah blah blah...something totally irrelevant...blah blah blah...."
Glance at clock.
"And third, blah blah...aren't you impressed with how much I can say without saying anything at all...blah..."
Finally. He's finished. Silence. The keynote speaker looked at me with furled eyebrows.
"What was the first part?" he mouthed.
Damn. What do I do now? I clearly failed my first attempt at moderating. I was supposed to be taking detailed notes on the question. I don't have a freakin' clue what the first question was. I turned to the man and grasped the mic to do the only thing that could be done at that point.
"What was the first part?"
The audience erupted into laughter. At least I had their sympathies. After another five minute explanation in which the man asked essentially why the Indonesian English educational system was broken, the key note was able to grasp on to something and save the day. I sputtered out a one-liner closing statement, shook the speaker's hand, and jetted for a seat in the back of the auditorium. That went well.

Looking back on it, my first experience as a moderator wasn't that bad. I've lived through far more embarrassing experiences...involving rollerskates....but we'll save that story for never. Live and learn, right? Luckily, my spirits were lifted by some pretty spectacular cultural performances later that evening. I got to meet these young and talented dancers and eat some pretty delicious local food. 

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Princess for a Day

When we dream of being a princess as little girls, tiaras, puffy dresses with miles of tulle, and about a truckload of glitter fill our minds; the stuff of fairytales and Disney films. In Indonesia it's a bit closer to home and reality - with far less tulle. On a recent trip to Central Java, I got to visit The Kraton, a real live palace with a real live Sultan and Royal family (princes and princesses!). I'm still uncertain about how a Sultan plays into the larger Indonesian government, but nonetheless His Majesty, The Sultan-Carrier of the Universe, Chief Warrior, Servant of the Most Gracious, Cleric and Caliph that Safeguards the Religion Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwono X lives and rules.


Once upon a time (last week), in a land far, far away (Jakarta), there lived a plain bule who traveled the land teaching English. Her true dream, however, was to become a princess. She read from a mystical tome (Lonely Planet) that a kingdom lie in the city of Jogjakarta. So, she boarded the mighty Lion (Air) and set out to learn how to fulfill her dreams. After a long a arduous flight (the evil fiend Kenny G tested her endurance the entire journey), she arrived at the gates of the kingdom.



Her journey to become a princess would not be easy.
She learned from the palace wisemen that she would face many challenges.
First, she had to get past the palace guards....

 ...and many evil spirits...
...and the...wait a minute...I don't know how to make this one evil; it was just a cool picture. Oh man, it's ruining the whole story. Just scroll down quickly...
Ehm...where was I? Oh yes, just in the nick of time, a handsome palace guard came to her rescue. He told her that the true secret to becoming a princess did not lie within the Sultan's palace but rather...
 ...*Poof* within these boxes and bags! And, of course, the talented hands of many makeup artists. Begin cool transformation sequence:

Princess Tabitha

Princess Meghan
My turn!


I was in good hands. Thanks, Ladies!
Princess Jackie
Left to Right: Princesses Tabitha, Angela, Mickie, Meghan, Iris, Jackie
Queen Megan and Sultan Jonthon (special thanks to Jonthon for making this whole adventure happen!)
Prince Matthew
You'd fight over her, too.
We may have taken a stroll through the mall and made a spectacle out of ourselves (do you have any idea how hard it is to walk in those skirts? It's an art form, I tell you) but hey, it's not everyday that you get to be a princess.
So, many hours and corsets later, the plain bule was transformed into a beautiful putri Jawa. And while it remains to be seen if she'll live happily ever after, she and her friends (enter some corny ending here...doo be doo, hey nah hey nah). 
The end.




 

Friday, October 28, 2011

Indonesia Ink

It all started last year when I met some of my girlfriends for dinner at Vietopia, a Vietnamese restaurant (that serves the most amazing cashew chicken in a pinapple...but I digress). It was when leaving said restaurant that I looked to the left and noticed this sign for a tattoo shop. I tucked away a business card from the door in my wallet to mull over for the next several months. So, if you don't like where this story is heading, you should blame Miranda and her posse for taking me to the Vietnamese restaurant. If you do like the story, it was all my idea. Moving on.

I was soon to discover that Durga is a renowned and respected tattoo artist, especially for his work with the Dayak tribes of Kalimantan and the Mentawai tribes of Sumatra. He goes to these remote areas where the tribal structure and lifestyle are still very much alive. There he learns the traditional art of hand-tapping and the meaning behind each tattoo. I did my research on Durga and his shop, watching documentaries, looking at his work, becoming his 'friend' on facebook...the guy is legit. I made up my mind that sometime during my second year, I would get my time in Indonesia memorialized with a tattoo from his shop.

It was through my facebook link with Durga that I learned Ania Jalosinska was going to be a visiting artist at Durga Tattoo for the month of October. This native of Poland has tattooed in many countries, including making regular appearances at a shop in Milwaukee. I was immediately fascinated by the 'sketchy' look of her work. I loved that her art didn't look like a traditional tattoo but more like a free-hand painting. I sent her an email. Suddenly, the 10 months I had to plan a tattoo turned into a one-month window. Let the butterflies and indecision begin!

Ania wrote back immediately, saying that she would love the opportunity to do some traditional Indonesian/Javanese images. So, we began the planning process via email. Before she arrived in the country, I had already put together some initial ideas - and then changed them approximately every five minutes.
It was time to call in some experts. I knew for certain that I wanted a common Javanese proverb in the old Javanese script. As a lover and teacher of languages, this seems appropriate. I also wanted to represent some of the beautiful batiks and culture found throughout the island of Java. One Saturday morning over a post-run breakfast, me and my four Indonesian girlfriends (the infamous posse that started this whole thing) solidified my plans. Srikandi - a traditional shadow puppet figure (think Laura Croft of Java...she's a bad ass with a bow and arrow), Mega Mendung - a beautiful cloud motif batik, Parang - another batik that was originally worn by Javanese royalty (everyone at work calls me "Putri Jawa" - Javanese Princess), the symbol of the Indonesian police, and this well-known Javanese proverb: "Love comes from habit".

I then went to my expert of Javanese language, another English teacher at the police language center and one of my very good friends, mbak Niken. She painstakingly went through the process of writing out the proverb in her mother tongue - I should explain that Javanese is the original language of the island of Java but is now rarely used. Very few people can read or write the ancient script anymore, so I was very blessed to have Niken.




I had two consultations with Ania once she arrived and Jakarta and shook off her jet-lag. We discussed the elements, placement, and size. After (I'm ashamed to say) more than a few changes about each of these, she was finally able to put together this idea on her computer. Perfect. The next step was to print out the computer version and redraw it to give it Ania's signature look.

Step 3, make the stencil and pick the place. Did I mention that this final product, while being everything that I wanted, was far larger than the original image in my mind's eye? Ah well...here we go... After talking to my eldest brother, I decided I wanted a less conspicuous placement, so Ania lined up the stencil just below a tank-top line. This meant the majority of the tattoo would be on my left ribcage...ouch. Here we go???

Now comes the fun part, to see if I'm really tough enough to take an estimated 5 hours of tattooing in one of the most sensitive areas on the body. I put in my headphones and sought distraction from Aretha and her soul sisters. The other three fellows from Jakarta, Michael, Lisa, and Meghan came along for support. They took pictures and video of the process for me. They stuck through most of the first sitting (Michael stayed for all to make sure I made it home without passing out. Thank you!), an impressive 4 hours.

I won't lie, I was so nervous that I was sweating bad enough to wipe off the stencil. After the first few lines, however, I got used to the sensation and was mostly able to get lost in my music. Here you can see Ania making fun of me because I looked like I was sleeping. I was definitely not sleeping.

At about hour three, Ania announced, "Now, you'll feel a different sensation." This is tattoo-speak for, "You're going to wish you were never born." This was true. At around 10 pm, I called uncle. The pain wasn't so much the issue. After doing the shading (the part the caused the most pain), my body had gone into cold sweats, involuntary shaking, and nausea. When I spoke up, Ania said she was impressed that I had gone that long. We worked out a time for me to return in the morning. With one more sitting of about an hour, she said those sweet words, "We are finished." Hallelujah. While stopping the night before was probably the best idea, going back the next day was exponentially more painful because the skin was already so raw. The results were well worth it, though:




It turns out that it is really difficult to photograph your own rib cage, so forgive the shaky pictures. Can you see all of the elements? Goal number 7, finished.